Days in Bangkok's red light district - Day 4

Sept 30, 2012

FINALLY, the day to visit Chatuchak market has arrived.
I was very excited over my first visit to Bangkok's mammoth market as it was the main objective of my trip.
From BTS Nana station, I took a skytrain and alighted at BTS Mo Chit station - the last station of the line.
A stretch of stalls by the road could be seen once visitors got down from the station.
Just walk along the traders, and you would be able to find the entrance to the market.

Since it was early morning, the crowd there was still very small.
"Let the shopping begins. And I will find that a pair of rugged shoes and sling bag," I said to myself.
I walked into almost every secondhand footwear shop I passed to find my dream shoes.
I found some interesting ones but they were too huge for my feet. Few pairs of canvas shoes that caught my attention were also slightly too heavy.

Suddenly, I found a shop selling sling bags sewn in pieces of gunny cloths of irregular sizes!
I bought one immediately, for 160 baht.
I noticed many local designers rented shops there to sell their own label. This is why I did not bargain too much with the designers. I just feel the need to support their enthusiasm in their artistic creations.

I was supposed to give Mei Yi a call at noon because they would only be there at noon. But since I couldn't find any public phone booth around the market, there was nothing I could do.
Out of a sudden, I saw two familiar faces shopping for clothes.
"Xia Hui! Xiao Yun!" I shouted. I was so surprised to bump into them. How often does a coincidence like this happen in the 35-acre Chatuchak market!
"Where is Mei Yi?" I asked.
"He went shopping alone," they said.
"I see. Hey, what shirts are you all looking at?" I asked. They showed me the clothes.
"Are these secondhand shirts?" I asked the guy who was tending the shop.
"I designed them!" said the agitated man, who was about to spear me in my head.

What. They looked used.

Fine. I was a little embarrassed. I called Mei Yi using Xia Hui's phone and made my way to Section 23.
Unfortunately, I did not see him.
I continued shopping and walked to the pet section. That was where I got lost. The section at the other side of the market is like a maze! I think I took more than 45 minutes to find my way out. I was so tired of walking and felt like slapping all the noisy animals no matter how adorable they were.
The camera I brought along was really a burden. I didn't use it to any picture of the market at all. I just wanted to shop in peace.
Somehow I found my way back to the market.
However, finding the exit to the skytrain station also took me another 20 minutes. More and more people are flocking into the market.
At the station, I gave Mei Yi a call. We bade farewell, exchanged contact details and promised to keep in touch.

I went back and took a nap.
Later in the evening, I took a stroll in different soi (lanes) branched out from the main Sukhumvit Road, and took the opportunity to check out some menus in Indian restaurants there.
I was shocked that some of them charged 200baht for just a bowl of curry chicken.
After being continuously pestered by men who showed me flyers of bikini girls and "massage" offers, I finally found a shelter that sells Thai food beneath it.
"Please, please serve me good Thai food. I need that," I closed my eyes and prayed silently.

The pad thai sucks. Why can't I find good pad thai like those that I have tasted in Hatyai two years ago!

To be honest, I got really tired of being surrounded by ladyboys, strip-dancers and hookers there.
I needed a place that can give me peaceful and quiet moment so that I can break away from the chaos in the red light district.
So Starbuck was my choice. With a cup of lovely coffee and a plate of dessert, I spent the entire night reading Bangkok Post and Time magazines in the shop.
Ends

Days in Bangkok's red light district - Day 3

Sept 30, 2012

I woke up to a humid morning, two slices of bread and fruits and a cup of coffee for breakfast as usual.
Mei Yi got down from his room and joined me 30 minutes later.
A boy, who was with his girlfriend at another table, asked us something about breakfast. Mei Yi kindly answered.
After that, Mei Yi asked them: "Where are you from?"
"We're from Beijing. How about you?"
"I am from Sichuan."
Mei Yi asked few more questions but the couple seemed to have lost interest.
"They don't seem friendly, even though they are from China," I observed.
"They are from Beijing, what do you expect. People from Beijing and Shanghai tend to feel that they are superior than anyone else in China. In their eyes, we are nothing," he said.

After breakfast, I accompanied him to meet Xiao Yun and Xia Hui at the "fried pork with rice" restaurant I had lunch yesterday (a coincidence).
At the skytrain station, I bade them goodbye.
"I thought you are coming with us?" asked Xiao Yun.
"Oh, I am going to visit Pratunam market. I will see you guys tomorrow at Chatuchak market?"
"Why don't you join us? It will be more fun!"
I gave it a thought. At the very last minute, I changed my plan and tagged along.

So we bought tickets to BTS' Victory Monument station. We were led to a ticketing counter to purchase ticket to Maeklong town after asking several men on street for direction.
"70baht," said the counter lady.
"What time is the last bus back to Bangkok?" I asked.
That counter lady could not understand and sought help from the auntie next to her.
She mumbled words I could not understand.
"Sorry, what were you saying?" I asked again.
"Many many bus back. Many."
She rolled her eyes. THAT BITCH ROLLED HER EYES.
I was totally pissed off, turned around and told the girls: "That woman rolled her eyes. I can't believe she did that to me!"
I bitched around for almost 20 seconds like the Devil lost its Prada. The girls just stood quietly aside and watched.

I took a breath and regained my composure.
"Hello, may I know where do we wait for the van?" I asked the Thai lady beside me.
"We wait here," she replied.
The van arrived few minutes later.
The journey to Maeklong took about one hour, so Mei Yi asked me: "What sort of Mandarin songs you listen to?"
"Em...I don't listen to Mandarin songs."
"Are you serious? There are so Chinese artistes from Malaysia and you don't even like a single one?"
Then he started naming singers one by one and I can't help but rolled by eyes while looking out the window.
"So which singers from China do you like?"
I let out a sigh. "Oh well, if you insist...maybe... Han Hong?"
Mei Yi widened his eyes. "Out of hundreds of singers, you picked Han Hong?"
"What~~~ I hate pop music. At least hers songs have a little cultural element in them," I said straightforwardly.
"Anyway, do you know Amy Winehouse?" I asked.
"No."
Thanks to Amy, our conversation on the topic ended.

An hour later, we arrived at the Amphawa floating market.
"We decided to come here because this market is normally where the locals go to. Too many floating markets were flocked with tourists and we dislike it," said Xiao Yun.

The four of us were among the earliest people in the market. Some stalls were just opened for business.
Few boats docked by the stairs beside the canal had already started barbecuing seafood for customers.
We sat by the stairs and ordered some grilled prawns and squids from one of them.
The squid tasted heavenly but the prawns were just alright. The meal was enjoyable not because of the food but the experience of sitting on the stairs by the canals enjoying food with two Thai couples around us.

Xia Hui (left) and Xiao Yun (right) 

We spent the next few hours walking from stalls to stalls. I did not forget my mission of searching unique Thai snacks in the market.
The chewy gelatin-like squid eggs have a fishy smell but could still taste good if dipped in fish sauce.

Squid eggs for 40baht

"We should leave for Maeklong railway station soon," Xia Hui suggested.
The girls wanted to see the famous Maeklong railway market, where traders would be seen drawing back their canopies when a train chugs through.
We halted a songthaew outside the market.
During the journey, my eyes were drawn to the Xiao Yun's pair of shoes that had a very quirky dark blue and maroon stripes design.
"I like your shoes!"
"Really? People say they're ugly."
"Yea, I like it because they're ugly and have personality," I said.
I detected an artificial smile with slight embarrassment on her face. But I sincerely liked her shoes.
"If I can find a pair of shoes that look like this in Chatuchak market tomorrow, I will definitely buy it," I swore to myself.
While we were still in songthaew, the railway gate suddenly closed. That means the train would be passing by.
"No!!!!!" everyone shouted.
That means we would no longer get to see traders making way for the train to pass through, since it was the last train for the day.
We arrived just few minutes after the train left.
It was a very simple market with most of the traders sell dried salted seafood, fruits and vegetables.

"There's nothing much to see here. What a waste of time," a Cantonese speaking tourist commented.
Nobody said this is a tourist destination, ok!
It was made popular because people publicised it online. They were just ordinary folks making a living by selling things.
I despise this kind of tourist mentality and felt sorry for traders who became rare animals in the eyes of tourists when they keep snapping their pictures.
This was why I did not take photos of them close-up. No regrets and I am proud of myself.

We took a van back and arrived at Bangkok city centre at about 5pm.
"We are going to this place, they called it the "watergate market" in Mandarin," Xia Hui said.
"Well then, I should make my way to Pratunam market then since I still have time spare," I said.
"Where is Pratunam market?"
"It's somewhere near BTS Chit Lom station."
Then I point to her the place of the market I wanted to go to. Somehow during our conversation, we realised that the "watergate market" they mentioned was actually Pratunam market!
"We don't know how to go there..." she said.
"Don't worry, leave it to me. We might need to walk quite a distance though," I said.

So we walked passed few major shopping malls and arrived at a shopping mall across a river.
"Why I can't see any market around here? I am sure the market must be somewhere around here," I was puzzled.
"There it is! That's the complex!" Xia Hui pointed at a shopping mall.
"But Pratunam is supposed to be a wholesale market, not a shopping mall..." I said.
"You see, "Platinum shopping mall", that's Pratunam!"
"Who says Platinum is Pratunam?"
Then only I realised that Pratunam was the Thai pronunciation of "Platinum". Ah, stupid me.
(Note: After coming back to Malaysia, I searched again for the location of Pratunam market. It is really a separate market located just beside the shopping mall!)

We went in and shopped for only about 30minutes. Apparently all shops closed at about 7.30pm. Maybe because it was a Saturday.
Anyway, I discovered a shop selling shoulder sling crossbody monk bag and a really cute Thai guy tending it!
With Mei Yi's help, I finally picked one.
"It's 190baht," said that young smiley Thai young man.
"Can you give me 150baht?"
"No....I can give you 170baht..." he smiled innocently.
"160baht?"
"No...170baht..." he said. I wanted to pinch his face and put him in a box and bring him back to Malaysia.
"Alright, 170baht it is. You design this yourself?" I asked when I saw the label on the price tag.
"No...it's family business," he flashed another smile.
Should have taken his photo. Damn.

We left the mall and stopped by a row of seafood stalls for dinner. Seats and tables were packed with customers.
We ordered barbecued prawns, seafood fried rice, a bowl of tomyam soup and BBQ fish with salt and stir-fried clam.
"I will be checking out tomorrow morning," said Mei Yi.
Apparently they had booked a fancy hotel to stay for their last two nights in Bankok before heading off to the Phuket island.
"Alright, then I shall meet you all at Chatuchak market tomorrow?"
"Alright, keep in touch!"
Ends

Days in Bangkok's red light district - Day 2

Sept 28,2012

It's only 7.30am and I was already awake (don't think I've slept last night), having breakfast in the courtyard of the guesthouse.
The rain that fell throughout the night finally stopped, leaving the weather wet and humid - just the way I like my morning in Bangkok to be.

Yannick, a Swiss traveller whom I've met on Sept 27 night, came down for breakfast while I was already having mine.
"Where do you plan to go today?" I asked.
"I am thinking of going to the Great Palace," said the beafy cute guy, while pointing the location on the map he had with him.
"Oh I am going to that area too! But I will be crossing the river to Thonburi. We can get there by skytrain," I said.
"Nah, I think I shall call a cab. I don't think it will be too expensive. That day the cab who brought me to the guesthouse from the airport only charged me 300baht," he said.
"Well then, I better run, see you!" I said.
Yannick pondered for a minute and said subtly: "I don't think I will be seeing you again. I am leaving today."
"Oh...well, alright then, you take care!"

So I left and walked to the skytrain station. I saw everyone had an umbrella in their hands.
"Crap, I left mine in the guesthouse," I said to myself. I was reluctant to walk back.
During breakfast earlier, I said this to Yannick: "I hope there will be no rain today."
He replied: "You better pray very hard."

So I murmured a prayer and bought a ticket to Sukhumvit Line's Central Siam, before transiting to Silom Line's Saphan Taksin, where Sathorn pier is.

I found out that I can buy direct ticket from Nana station to Saphan Taksin! It costs about 35 baht. Compared to buying two separate tickets, which cost about 50baht, I could save 15baht.

After a 15-minute boat ride, I reached Wang Lang pier.
An uncle working in a hospital nearby the pier was puzzled why I come to that area.
"Why do you come here? You should go to the Great Palace, Chatuchak market and Chinatown," he said.

"I heard people sell secondhand stuff here so I thought of coming here to have a look," I replied.
"Oh, you need to go further in the narrow lanes. If I have time I can bring you around," he said.
That was very nice of him, but I decided to do this on my own.

Apparently the "secondhand" stalls only sell used garments and footwear. That did not interest me so I walked to the food stalls and tried some snacks.

I bought a piece of tak tae (a crepe-like snack wrapped with flavoured fillings and garnished with coconut and sweet-sour cream), Chai nif (like little dimsums with fillings like shrimps and pumpkin) and grilled banana.
Chai nif taste really good! A box of 12 with different fillings only cost 30baht.

Yummy yummy chai nif. On left was Auo, who struggled to explain to me the delicacy they sell

I was hoping to get some stories by interviewing some of them but they couldn't understand English, except "how much?" and "what is this?"

I walked past the Patvaradi Theatre but it was closed. I spotted a few traditional barber shop and had the urge to get a hair cut. Unfortunately, I did not have the courage to do so.

A mural outside the Patvaradi Theatre

After perusing most of the stalls along the street and tasted some of the food they sell, I decided to go back.
At Wang Lang pier, I bought my ticket from the counter auntie.
"15baht," she said.
I took out 10baht and give it to her first, and tried to look for 5 baht.
I didn't have 5 baht. So I took out a coin I thought was 20baht and gave it to me.
I expected her to give me back my 10baht and another 5 baht change.
"No, no, no, 15 baht," she returned the coin to me.
"No, I am giving you 20 baht. You give back my 10 baht," I said, while reaching out my hand to 'take' a 10baht coin from her table.
"No, no, no, 15 baht, 10 baht (you've already paid), 5 baht (she raised her hand to me)."
I gave her a "???" look.
Then only I realised I have mistaken the 2 baht coin for 20 baht.
That auntie let out "aiyayayai"  and shook her head to show how annoyed she was while giving me the ticket.

It was the most embarassing moment in my life (in Bangkok).

Once I returned to Sathorn pier, rain started drizzling.
Thank God most parts of the walkway were sheltered, except the few metres lane near my guesthouse.
I was exhausted and immediately fell onto my bed and took a nap. It was only about 12pm.
I woke up three hours later (yes, that's the length of my holiday nap, don't judge). 

My inner self woke up and called me to go to a park.

After browsing through the city map, I decided to go to the Benchasiri park, a park built to commemorate the 60th birthday of HM Queen Sirikit in 1992.

At the end, somehow my mind went haywire and prompted me to buy a ticket to Asok - NOT where the park is.

"Hello, I heard there's a park (I forgot the name) somewhere around here. Can you tell me where is it?" I went up to the tourism information counter and asked.
"Park?" he pondered for a while. "Oh, you cross the road and walk straight."
"Alright, thank you!"
So I followed his instruction - crossed the road, walked straight continue my hunt for THE PARK *jeng jeng!*

But I was hungry.

So I stopped by a restaurant for lunch.
There's "fried rice with pork" written in the menu, but the picture beside it showed "fried pork with rice".
"Hello hello, you sell fried rice with pork or fried pork with rice?"
That girl (waiter) gave me a blank look.
Anyway, I ordered it together with an item written "lemon" on the menu.

Two Taiwanese ladies sitting beside me suddenly asked me in Mandarin: "Hello, are you Taiwanese?"
"Can't you tell I am Nepalese (eyes rolled)?" 
It would be an awesome if I replied them that answer in Mandarin.
So I told them I am a mandarin-speaking Malaysian.
"Oh, so do you know any place of interest around here?"
I looked at them - both with heavy makeup and big hair dyed like barbie dolls I would buy and knocked them repeatedly on a wooden table.

I should have given them direction to Central World and Siam Paragon. These shopping complexes totally spelled "places of interest" to them.
But I was too kind to be mean. So I gave them a "no."

Then again, I felt they might be useful to me. I put on a fake smile and asked: "There's a park somewhere around here. Do you know where is it?"
"Oh it's just in front," one of the girls pointed.
"Really? Did you go there? How was the park?" I asked excitedly.
"We only walked past it."

Ah, kind of expected. Trees in recreational park do not branch out handbags and heels with price tags, don't they.

My lunch was served and mysteries solved - they are fried pork with rice and lemon ice blended.
The food is actually not bad for the price. It is a corner shop with purple tent, right opposite the famous "Asia Book" bookstore.

I continued my walk and saw "Chuvit Garden".
"That does not sound famillar. The park I was looking for has a pond."
I strolled around the garden anyway. 
The music played from speakers installed at the four corners of the park was endearing to the ears.

I felt sleepy again and returned to the guesthouse. 
stop rolling your eyes, I can see you from my monitor, ok.
Though I was lying on bed with my eyes half shut, I couldn't stop my hands from reaching for the map on the table.
Then only I realised a stupid mistake I made - I went to the wrong park because I got down at the wrong station!

I intended to go to the Benchasiri Park, which is near the Phrom Phong BTS station, not Chuvit Garden beside Asok station!

My mind made me jump up from my bed but my body told me to lie back.
I just walked back and forth my room, giving the body and the mind some time to discuss.
"Ok, fine! fine! I'll go!"
"No !!! (cracked voice)" my body lamented miserably.

Finally, I arrived at the lush recreational park.
Urban Bangkok folks come here for a stroll after work while families come here for an evening jog.

Contemporary abstract sculptures were installed around nicely-trimmed scrubs. A fountain was built in an ornamental pond right in the middle of the park where couples stroll and families jog.

I sat down on a bench in front of youths playing sports. It was nice to get a sincere thank you from a takraw player when I returned him the takraw ball that flew out of court.

The harmonious bird-chirp-flower-blossom moment was over when I realised I was sitting somewhere dangerous.

I got up immediately and escaped from the crime scene-to-be and sat on another bench few meters away. 
Behind me were a group of half-naked sun tanned skin youths doing push-ups. Innnocent little ones. 
Puuuurrrrr~rrraoooo~ as if they were waiting to taste my claws. 

An elderly man, a foreigner, who was sitting next to me and reading a book, saved their lives when the angelic song of spring started playing in my ears again.

Out of a sudden, everyone stopped their activities and stood up. I stood up awkwardly and immediately searching for machine guns hidden among the bushes (just in case if there is any terrorist attack).
I almost let out a shout the second they played the high-spirited national anthem.

Oh yes, that was the reason they were all up standing.
Their respect for the country is commendable. So was the foreigner who put down his book and stood together with the Thais.
My tour at the park ended when the night turned dark.

Once again, I bumped into the China gang who was enjoying a bowl of pad thai at a stall in front of the guesthouse.
"Hello!" I waved at them excitedly and walked up to them.
They said they visited the Grand Palace and offered prayers to the four-faced Buddha at the Erawan Shrine.
"We were even duped by a tuk tuk driver who took us to Phaya Thai station even after we specifically told him the name of the restaurant."
"Did you pay him?"
"Of course not."
"..."
"So what is your plan tomorrow?" Xiao Yun asked.
"I plan to go to Chatuchak weekend market," I said.
"We are going there on Sunday."
"Oh? Maybe we can go together on Sunday! I can have other plans for tomorrow. So what have you planned for tomorrow?" I said.
Xia Hui said they wanted travel up north to Amphawa floating market and visit the market near the Maeklong railway station.
"You want to join us?" she asked.
"Nah, you guys go ahead. I will have something to do to keep me busy tomorrow. But thanks for the offer," I replied.
The pad thai seller who seemed annoyed came up to us and said: "If finished (eating), please go. (Other) customers want (to) sit."

Mei Yi and I accompanied the girls to the junction of the road and they walked back to their hotel on their own (the girls were afraid of dark and ghost. They needed a hotel with better lighting thus they sought accomodation elsewhere).
"I'll come to your room later, ok?" Mei Yi asked.
"Sure."

About an hour later, Mei Yi came over and talked about some sensitive issues that are happening in China and the various lifestyles in Malaysia. The two-hour conversation was truly informative.
Ends

Days in Bangkok's red light district - Day 1

Sept 27, 2012

I was supposed to be travelling with few friends but they decided to back out due to too many uncertainties.

I gave it a thought, about 2 seconds, and hell yes I'm gonna book a ticket to Bangkok.
And who-bam! Here I am, lying on my bed in a guesthouse, in the capital city of Thailand.

I have not been travelling alone since my first solo trip to Hatyai (also Thailand!) some two years ago.
I was excited over the trip but a little worried too.

Questions like "Should I plan my trip or just have fun getting lost in the city?", "Should this be a shopping trip or should I just continue travel like a pauper?", "Should I book a fancy hotel or a budget guesthouse?" popped up in my head.

A week before the trip, I've decided to take this opportunity to explore few markets in Bangkok.

Sept 27 morning marked the beginning of my trip.

Long story short: 25-minute slow walk to Ipoh train station, took ETS to Kuala Lumpur, took a skybus (which screened Final Destination throughout the journey and frightened the hell out of me) to the airport, boarded the flight, arrived at Bangkok at about 4.30pm and was pissed off by an auntie from Hong Kong (who wore damn pink from head to toe) who knocked me with her elbow to cut my cue at the custom counter.

Anyway, I had no problem finding the Airport Rail Link terminal as I was familliar with the Suvarnabhumi airport.

I got down at Phaya Thai station, walked to BTS Phaya Thai and made my way to BTS nana station - where my guesthouse is located.
Indian restaurants and tailor shops run by Indians are everywhere. You can see smartly dressed Indians standing/sitting outside the shops drawing customers.

Indian restaurants and tailor shops are everywhere along the Sukhumvit Rd

Many traders sell sex toys, viagra and pornography like rice, sugar and oil. You can walk fast but you can never miss a giant dildo when it is shoved right into your face.
Apparently the area I would be staying in the next four days is considered a part of Bangkok's red light district, which I was not aware of when I made room reservation.

It took me more than 20 minutes to find the guesthouse.
I like the simple and rugged design of the wooden guesthouse. The fact that it does not allow people to smoke within the premise or bring hookers into the guesthouse were also a plus for me.

However, I was disappointed that they do not provide free wifi service and drinking water. The walkway was a little dark too.

After checking in, I got down and met three Chinese travellers from Sichuan, China - Xiao Yun and Xia Hui, and the only guy Mei Yi. 
They took about 2 weeks off from their work to travel around Chiang Mai, Thailand and Phuket island.
Our conversation started off with our dissatisfaction over the guesthouse's "10 baht-15 minute" wifi service and all that jazz.

Then it led on to the topic on public holidays, I cannot remember how.
"Besides weekends, the only two occasions in China declared as public holidays - Chinese New Year and National Day," said Xiao Yun.
Mei Yi and Xiao Yun started bickering on the number of public holidays they have in a year.
"Seriously. guys, there is nothing to argue over public holidays..." Xia Hui and I were trying to end the fight.
But then again, I guess listening to them arguing was the only thing we could do as it was raining cats and dogs out there.

Night view of Soi (Lane) 11.

When the rain finally stopped, I went out with my netbook to look for a restaurant with FREE wifi service.
That shouldn't be difficult, I thought.
But guess what - Even the famous coffee franchaise charges 140 baht for 2 hours wifi service!

After 15 minutes of hunting, I finally found a restaurant that offered wifi service for free.
This is one restaurant I will return not for the food but only its wifi service.

Fried rice with basil leaves, a cup of coffee and my netbook.

The night was made colourful by women with extreme make-up on their faces and glittering dresses on their body.
Foreigners keeping their hands busy around the waist and butts of the Thai women and skimpily-dressed girls stood by roadside waiting for their client(s) were also an eye opener for me.

And some of them have more manly voice than I'll ever have.
Ends